COBA - among the ruins

This map will give you a rough idea of the layout of the exposed parts of Coba ruins but to get to see all the largest structures shown, as well as going onto the side routes to smaller buildings, would take more than a day and we'd really need an  English speaking to get a good appreciation of what we were looking at.

 

Of the 6500 buildings believed to comprise Coba only 2.5% have been excavated - at sunrise and sunset from the top of the Nohuch Mul Pyramid, looking out across the jungle, shadowy mounds betray the hidden gems of temples and other structures - it could take another 50 years to expose the entire city!

 

So,  the following pictures are just a sample of some of the wonderful structures that we did see on our walk today - about 4 kms - before the heat became too exhausting.

The Mayan roadways can be  seen here radiating out from the centre.  Most were in good walkable condition but others had crumbled making it more difficult to access some areas.  Excavations don't stop and throughout the area enormous rockpiles are everywhere - it's sometimes difficult to tell rockpiles from buildings! 

This is Temple of the Paintings - the interior walls were once highly decorated with colourful murals and  some of the original paint can still be seen.  However, although temple was relatively intact tourists are not allowed inside for fear of structural collapse.

A set of steps and bit of wall is all that is left of this structure and trees remain untouched, rooted fast into the top brickwork.

 BEFORE we reach the next building it's time to get in a little practice to loosen up those muscles  ....hup....2,3,4.....hup..2,3,4.......we have quite a climb ahead of us.....


...here it is, this magnificent structure is the Nohoc Mul Pyramid.  The tallest pyramid in the Yucatan at over 126ft high.  Climbing to the top was a challenge - 120 steps angled at 45 degrees meant it was easier to go up on all fours!!



A dangerous climb - this is one of  only a few Mayan structures that the public are still allowed to climb - based on the fact that (apparently) no-one has yet tumbled to their death!  The pyramid at Chichen Itza was only recently cordoned off due to a serious accident.




Each step is deep - probably twice that of the average step on the stairway of a modern house.  Going up is hard work you must  pace yourself and stop every once in a while.  If it's a busy day you have to move away from the single safety line and sit down to let others pass. Some of the edging stones on the steps have become dislodged, others are shiny and slippery with use and you need to go very slowly. 



Going down is even more precarious - the safety handhold is a single thick rope pinned centrally onto the steps..   It is recommended to come down backwards holding on to the rope.  This is  difficult to do if you have people wanting to pass you in each direction - William is down there somewhere....

Here's William just making it to the top - when I learn how to put a commentary onto a video it will be very helpful!!

WE are planning lunch at the top of the Pyramid and carrying a small backpack with supplies ! - yes, hard boiled eggs again.    As we sit looking out across the miles of lush greenery,  we think of those  ancient Mayans all those centuries ago who, after a long day of beheading people,  probably enjoyed a picnic lunch at the top of the pyramid as well.

We were joined at lunch by this little fella who kept passing in front of us.  Strict instructions not to feed the wildlife meant he left empty handed.





COBA - getting around inside the archaeological site

After purchasing our entry tickets at the booth we search in vain for a map of the site.  We are told they don't exist but that there are many guides inside who will walk with us and explain things.   MMmmmm... not a good start as we have already discovered that the English speaking guides had already been snapped up and were out with their groups.

Once through the entry gates we are swamped with invitations  to sign up with a guide for half a day.  We politely refuse with our well practiced 'No, gracias' and head toward a large white notice board displaying the basic layout of the area.  It's not very detailed but better than nothing - there are always other tourists to talk with and that will also be helpful



Even this 'map' seems sketchy and lacking detail but we take a photograph anyway.  If we really get lost it might just help us to find the way out!

NOW.......there are three ways to navigate your way around the area......


...the first is by bicycle of which there are hundreds available ...........

.....and can be hired from many locations within the park area for about M$35 per day.....

.....the second is by Pedicar or Tricitaxi  - 2 people and a driver/guide - for M$170 for two hours

 



...certainly this looked the most comfortable option......

 

.......the third is to  just walk - which we did.......

COBA - A little bit of history

Coba, estimated to have been established in 100 AD,  is located nearby two lagoons -  which is a rare sight in the Yucatan - from the information we gleaned it seems the City was never found by the Spanish who spent their time some miles away destroying Chichen Itza. 

Centuries passed and it was lost from sight - consumed by the jungle - relatively little is known about Coba or its inhabitants.

The area  is huge, about 80 square miles but only a fraction of it has been cleared of jungle. It was first re-discovered in the 1890's but excavations did not start until 1970 - there are thought to be approximately 6,500 structures dating back to perhaps 600 AD.
 
The Maya also built a vast network of elevated stone and plaster roads leading from Coba to surrounding cities.   These roads are marvels of engineering, perfectly straight and in places up to 10 meters wide!  Why? when they had no cars, pack animals or wagons - no-one knows.  The longest of the roads is 52 miles long leading to the derelict town of Yazuma.

There's lots on-line you read about Coba and we want to take you on a tour of the ruins with us so here we go.


Even though it was early by the time we arrived - 9am - tour buses were already beginning to stack up on one side of the carpark.  Over 40 busses will come and go during the course of the day each seating 50 persons plus a a carpark with space for 100 cars.  

Dozens of market stalls surround the edge of the parking lot - they have been open since 8am when the first buses began arriving.

At the edge of the car park is a new zip-line attraction which will zoom you off to the other side of the Coba Lagoon.   It's quite a climb up to the top and on the day we were there was a long queue -we planned to return but never did!!

CHICHEN ITZA to COBA - a friendly welcome

A downside of travelling is that you just get settled in - clothes hung up, finally get the shower to give you hot water, win the fight with the air conditioning unit,  get to know the town - and suddenly it's time to pack up and move on again. 

So, today we said a fond farewell to Chichen Itza as we squeezed all our bags into yet another robust but well worn cab for the sixty mile journey going east to the town of Coba.

En route we stop for some bottled water and our driver (Santos) refuels.  We plan to eat our 3-course lunch about halfway : a bag of crisps, 4 hardboiled eggs cooked this morning, a large bar of Snickers chocolate !!

In a confined spaced, opening a pack of crisps sounds like walking over bubble wrap in steel boots.  Alerted by the noise we see Santos's head tilt,  he smiles at us in the rear view mirror, so we include him in our snacky treats - he was really appreciative.

The roads were better than expected as we headed deeper into jungle.  With so much tourist traffic these roads were upgraded to take the large multi-axel coaches and buses that continually come to the ruins, but there was little to see along the way.  We passed through many small villages, some just a few thatched rooves and then they were gone. 

We had been led to believe that, apart from the archaeological site, Coba had nothing to offer.  We found a little town with newly planted palm trees on the central reservation, 2 small restaurants, 2/3 mini grocery stores plus a wonderful welcome from the hotel reception desk which was perched precariously an the edge of the road....



The receptionist was delightful - this is a family run business and soon people were buzzing
around, welcoming us to Coba and taking our bags to the room



First impressions were daunting -where were the rooms? Up the stairway behind the red umbrella  all was revealed as we were led to our room on the second storey of the hotel block.  The hotel grocery store always had a wonderful fresh fruit display outside.  Upstairs was a small restaurant offering a typical Mexican menu



Further down the road the Family had another restaurant where we dined one evening
 

Between the Hotelita Sac-Be and the Chile Picante Restaurante sits this pretty church.  Plain wooden benches and  tiled floor.  There was no glass in the windows -   rain is rare but torrential when it does arrive and the open windows keep everything cool.
 




CHICHEN ITZA - our hotel

Our hotel was like a motel set in the jungle with some good plus points - great staff,  two swimming pools, beautiful gardens and - best of all, a free breakfast!  All for a modest $47 (30 GBP) per night.
 


The thatched roof of the restaurant behind one of the pools.

The pink terraced exteriors of the rooms stretch into the edge of the jungle

The rooms were better than they looked from the outside!
 

This is the other pool which was immediately
 outside our room at the far end of the long garden - so, a refreshing swim to cool off.....

                      




....and think important thoughts!

 

 

 



CHICHEN ITZA - light show

Last evening we went to see the Light Show, recently commissioned by the Tourist Office and costing 30 million dollars, which uses the great Pyramid of Kukulcan as its back drop, over 24 meters high with a central staircase on each face, ascending at 45 degrees.

We found ourselves in a huge queue, behind hundreds of tourists who had arrived by coach from the coast, so by the time we got into the site, all of the 500 seats had been taken leaving at least half of us  to sit cross legged on the grass.

Then the Show started, lighting up the face of the Pyramid.  I think, like us, many felt it would be just something on the lines of lasers and search lights lighting up the sky. But when the haunting music of the pan pipes started and giant snakes began crawling up the steps and the pyramid began sprouting tree, we knew we were in for a magical experience.



The show started off very simply with basic colours splashed onto the face of the Pyramid. 



Then the show began - it was almost as if we were wearing 3-D spectacles as creatures zoomed into life. 

These images of embroidered panels are typical of those that adorn Mayan ladies' dresses throughout the area.  Not just for special occasions but for everyday wear.


 

 

CHICHEN ITZA -The blue Cenote at Ik-Kil Archaeological Park

Today we discovered the reason why the Yucatan has virtually no rivers or lakes!

We have spent the day at the nearby Archaeological Park, where we learned that the whole peninsula sits on a porous limestone shelf, so all rainwater promptly disappears and runs around in underground streams and rivers.

Over the centuries, this water has gouged-out limestone caverns and sinkholes and today there are over two thousand of these water-filled natural pools or "Cenotes" and they are the major source of freshwater in the Yucatan.

The 'Ik Kil Cenote' is right here at the Park - it's been featured in several Hollywood movies.

 


The breathtaking view from the top of the 195ft wide Cenote, looking at the swimmers 90ft below. William is one of the swimmers enjoying a cool dip in the heat of the day.
 

Descending to the bottom is via this slippery stairway - it's easy to trip, the steps are steeper than expected and the only handhold is a chain loosely draped through poles at either side.



Halfway down there is a viewing balcony before another turn continues down to the water's edge.  The long tendrils are roots from plants at the surface reaching down into the water. A popular place for a swim!  

 

One of the bungalows you can rent for an overnight stay at the Park - they are so pretty inside and out..
The Archaeological Park is a major tourist attraction with well manicured pathways, trees and flowers and is complete with a gift shop, snack bar and restaurant.