ISLA COZUMEL - our hotel....correction...our hotels

After three weeks in Cozumel it's time to say goodbye and  here is the  overview of our accommodation on the island. 

We ended up staying at three hotels  : Suites Colonial (2 weeks),  Casa Mexicana (3  nights)  and Suites Bahia (4 nights),  all perfectly situated in downtown, where it all happens. They are part of a small, well run, family owned chain on the Island.

You might wonder why we didn't stay at the Colonial for the whole time and save the hassle.  Well, that was our intention but in extending on line with Expedia and paying for another week at the Colonial, it seems a glitch in the system had not upgraded the fact that the hotel was full for the coming seven days.

We searched on line for a room in hotels nearby but without success. Everything was booked - a hint of panic was setting in but Roberto, the Reservations Manager,  took things in hand and managed to fit us in between guest movements at his other hotels and maintained our modest room rate of $60 per night (40GBP) at all hotels,  even though the booking error had not been his fault.

1.   Suites Colonial

Just off the bustling main square a cool vine covered walkway leads to the hotel entrance



Rooms were simple basic but spacious with good air-conditioning which worked non-stop tho' a bit noisy.   TV, strong wifi signal, a small cocina (kitchenette) with fridge, microwave, 2-burner stove top, crockery and cutlery etc.  Maid service was excellent and by the time we returned from breakfast each day our room was ready to go.

2.   The Casa Mexicana

 Their 'flagship' hotel and where breakfast is provided for guests from all three locations. 


The first floor is wide open to the warm sea breezes and houses the reception desk, a comfortable lounge area with library, lots of potted plants/greenery, comfy rocking chairs and settees and finally the pool which overlooks the ocean.



The room staff were adept at making animals out of the towels, adding little stick-on eyes and mouths for effect.  Each day a different 'animal' greeted us, this one was reading a magazine to pass the time.

3.  Suites Bahia

Great room - balcony with ocean view,. fridge & microwave and really good air-con.  As we were on the top floor the heat of the day would have been overpowering without its cooling effect.

The room was more like an apartment and  much larger than we had expected - for some reason we had been given one of the best room in the hotel!!  The bedroom led on to a long balcony overlooking the sea, we had a separate dining room/lounge, a kitchenette, a walk-in wardrobe, and a large bathroom with  Jacuzzi, although this temporarily out of service.  Four nights here was just not long enough but we had to leave........

From this angle four floors up it looks as if we could almost jump off the ledge and land on the beach!  this pic is taken at about 7 am and all the little boats anchored off will soon fill with passengers most of whom will be heading for the offshore reefs for snorkeling.

GOODBYE COZUMEL .................

ISLA COZUMEL - Vroom! Vroom!...... is it a Maserati...???

We had hired bicycles several times during our stay but the intense heat of the day was not conducive to long cycle rides once the sun was at its peak which meant we hadn't seen much of the island outside of the main town so, on our last day, we decided to hire a car

A company in the next street had the best price deal and over the telephone we were told they only had a few cars including a Maserati.... WOW and only $US34 for the day - something didn't quite add up!

We completed the paperwork and walked to the adjoining parking lot with our helpful booking clerk, Jesus - well named, we thought, as we eyed the available cars, which looked as if we'd need all the help we could get!  .  None were new, not a problem, but all lacked TLC and debatable roadworthiness........

.......and there was our Maserati - actually, we never knew what it was as all the manufacturer markings were missing, so if you can name it from this picture do let us know.

They say the camera doesn't lie but it isn't true!  Our little car was covered in small dents and scratches everywhere.  The tank was nearly empty, there was no spare wheel, it had one working seatbelt and an engine that sounded like Concorde on take off.  'Have fun' said Jesus ' and don't forget to drive on the right'.  The roll top cover for the roof and back seats had long UV'd away but with no sign of rain we set off for a great day out.

We followed the coastal road south which took us past the international cruise ship docks - all full, then into the mega hotel zone, all full with lines of coaches parked outside the many resort parks.  We stopped briefly to refuel.

From there on the coastline was nearly always in view  but apart from a few stretches of pristine sand most of the beach looked rocky & pretty inhospitable.  However, there were several extended beach bars that looked attractive and we stopped for lunch and a couple of photographs..

For most of the journey the rocky beach was edged with brown Sargasso weed which smells less than pleasant on the breeze but it has its uses and here in Cozumel they collect it by the truckload and use it as a natural fertilizer because of its high nutrient content.

Our coconut cocktails arrived in hand cut 'glassware' and were delicious - slightly more alcoholic than we had expected but we weren't rushing off.  The beach restaurant sits at the entrance to the Punta Sur Ecological Park some 247 acres of nature preserve - mangroves, coastal dunes, lagoons, reefs - its rugged terrain can only be accessed by official park transportation and a guide.  We relaxed in comfortable chairs and watched the comings and goings of visitors.

Let this be a warning to us all!!



Join the queue.................

Having crossed the island west to east at the southern end we take the left curva peligrosa (dangerous curve) and head north for El Cedral the oldest Mayan ruin on the island.  Sadly, during WWII the US army Corps of Engineers destroyed a lot of it to make way for the island's first airport.  There's not much remaining of the ruins but it was worth a detour and we did meet the last living Mayan.

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San Gervasio Mayan ruins were next on the list,  accessed by a long 6km road leading off at a right angle from the upper road which crossed the island east to west.   When we got there the site was due to close within 45 minutes and we declined against going inside as there was not enough time to make it a worthwhile visit.

However, excitement on the way back when William slammed on the brakes to avoid a wild pig which ran across the road in front of us - too late for a photograph - we learned later that these pigs breed in the extensive areas of jungle on the island and hunted only in the weeks leading up to special events like Christmas or Easter.

ISLA COZUMEL - along the seafront

Cozumel has that 'Tardis' feel about it - what seemed like a small island when we arrived has now assumed dimensions out of all proportion to its size.


It's difficult to know what to include and what to leave out  and I don't want you yawning!

So - the following photographs are simply taken from our daily walks along the waterfront where the town has spent a lot of money in trying to make it as attractive as possible.  Their efforts have been successful - palm trees, new paving, seating, endless photographic opportunities which include dozens of bronze sculptures, it is really a delightful place to spend time.


Between these giant eagles sits the base of a flagpole flying the Mexican flag.  Many civic events are held here throughout the year but it has always been deserted when we've travelled past.  The Golden Eagle is the official bird of Mexico and the coat of arms of Mexico depicts a golden eagle perched on a prickly pear cactus devouring a snake. The area is lit at nght which is a sight to see.

Cozumel means swallows and this beautiful bronze sculpture of three swallows in flight makes a dramatic picture.  You might notice the gentleman, bottom right, with the bicycle?......that's William! 

   

Excuse me Sir, would you care to dance with my daughter ?....."'Don't mind if I do...is 20 pesos enough?".........  this bronze duo  depicts the carnival side of Cozumel life.  

The Flute Player - girl sitting on a turtle engraved with Mayan reliefs

 


Leapfrog - this is probably the most animated sculpture - the longer you look at the two children the  more you expect them to move!  Mayan reliefs again on the turtle.

This is quite spectacular - an underwater scene depicting the wonders of  Cozumel's extensive reef.    Divers with airtanks on their backs, octopus, fish, rays, shells and more there's a lot of detail as you get closer.....the waterfall effect from the archway was better in real life than this photograph and really gave a good impression of being below the surface.

  Toward the end of the seafront walk, where the road starts to curve inland, is the airport where several WWII fighter plans are on display.  It is not generally known that Mexico participated with the allies in WWII when volunteers signed up to help the United States kick the Japanese out of the Pacific Islands.

 'El Escuadron 201' was composed  of more than 300 volunteers, known as the Aztec Eagles  - 36 experienced pilots and the rest ground crewmen.  10 of that 300 are still alive today!

 On the way back we pass 'Alexia y Julian' one more time



This shot is taken from a small dock that juts out about 50 yards beyond the sea wall  where small dive boats collect their guests.   As you can see there is no beach just limestone rock.




This is the quiet time of  day, the shopkeepers are just opening up, the hotel tourists are still eating breakfast  and the cruise ships have not yet arrived.



ISLA COZUMEL - a walk around town

Up early and rarin' to go we collect a map of the town from Ruby the receptionist at front desk who presents us with two pink wrist bands giving us official access to free breakfast at their sister hotel, the Casa Mexicana, two blocks away.  

Breakfast was superb, set on the second floor of the hotel with a view of the sea there was a wonderful multichoice buffet with everything that you could possibly want  :juices, cereals, freshly cut fruit, egg, bacon, sausage, beans, toast, jam, yoghurts, toppings - they even cooked waffles and fresh eggs to order in any style...have I left anything out??

With our identifying pink wristbands we tried hard not to let the side down by leaving food marks or coffee droplets on the pristine white linen - if the wrist bands weren't enough, the soiled linen would be a dead giveaway that we were from the  'other',  more modest, hotel!! 

View from two floors up - despite saying "Sit and stay!!" by the time I got up to the balcony to take this picture William had moved from the table!

This view is from the balcony on the first floor of the Casa Mexicana hotel which is right in the centre of downtown having a wonderful seafront vista.  Punta Langosta is behind me, ships are in for the day and Cozumel is awash with tourists. 

After breakfast we take a walk through the pedestrianized downtown mall then along the seafront with a warm breeze blowing.  Yesterday's ships have departed but their spaces have been taken up by another two of equal size and with four more down at the other International piers.......Cozumel is alive and buzzing. 

 

Downtown shopping area recently upgraded is very attractive

Roads are busy with cars, motorcycles, horse & carriages, taxis line up waiting for their next fare.   Clumps of tourists everywhere some studying their maps, others piling into small tour buses, some just sitting on the sea wall watching life go by.  There's the smell of food being cooked, the sound of people haggling prices for their purchases, the ferry blasts it horn before leaving the dock and we are just caught up in the most amazing human liquidizer.

 

Crowds ease as we get a little more out of town.  The sea wall has seating all the way along its entire length - William thought he'd test out how comfortable it can be,  To the right of William, building work is in full force behind the awnings laying new paving which will extend the pedestrianised town centre and restaurant district. 

 The beaches that run the length of downtown and beyond in both directions are not sandy so there is  no great opportunity to walk the beaches unless you go a long way south to the mega hotel zone, which we did not do.  

 

The town beaches are limestone rock right up to the seawall, very uneven and peppered with mansize holes that were easy to fall into.  Any space on the beach was taken up by the dozens of local fishing boats who returned stacked with fresh fish at the end of the day.

 

Guess who??   from time to time William would go missing but I knew he'd never be far away from the boats

 

THEN LOOK WHAT WE FOUND!!

 

 Life's full of coincidence - some think it's an omen for the next event, others poo-poo the whole idea and dismiss it - however, what do you make of the following - press the full screen icon so that you don't miss a thing!

 

We haven't got a clue who Julian is but perhaps Alexia is about to link hulls and become a catamaran.                                    

Truly, if you can't find it here...................................

..............it doesn't exist!!

ISLA COZUMEL

Cozumel is Mexico's largest island measuring  28m long x 10m wide and 10+ miles off the coast of the Peninsular from Playa del Carmen.  There's only ten degree difference in the weather all year round - 95 degs in summer/85 degs in winter, it really is a great place to spend the winter.  We met several people aboard the ferry who were doing just that.

We were excited to be here, having heard so much about it,  and had this dreamy vision of a beautiful tropical paradise,  peaceful,  serene, clear blue waters,  waving palm trees, soft winds, not a tourist in sight but us - and it is lovely - but we had overlooked  the fact that Cozumel has grown to be one of the top cruise line destinations in the Caribbean.  There are THREE International cruise ship piers, one freight pier and two ferry piers all within a few miles of each other.

YIKES!!  reality has just kicked - this place is absolutely jam packed with visitors.  The Ships arrive at something like 8am, passengers disembark for the day ashore, reboard at 7pm and off into the sunset.  The system runs like clockwork.  There's much business for shops, restaurants and tour operators.

From our vantage point we can see only see the Punta Langosta International pier and take note of the two behemoths that sit there dreaming in the sunshine.  I look up their dimensions  :  Disney Magic (965ft long, 106ft wide, 11 decks, 2700 passengers, 950 crew) and Norwegian Epic (1080ft long, 133ft wide,  15 decks, 4100 passengers, 1738 crew).  There are four more ships alongside at the other piers.

The map below shows that most of the action is on the west coast, where outlying reefs are safe and easily accessed and 99% of all the islands hotels, shops and restaurants are crusted along this short section of the coastline. 

The east coast, known locally as just 'the other side' probably has the better beaches but is unfriendly - windswept, with high surf and dangerous rip currents.   There are no hotels but one or two beach bars open during the day.


 

Once you head out of downtown the roads are limited.  The north section of the island is almost inaccessible - there is a dirt road on the east side going up to the lighthouse on the northern tip and a shorter dirt road going to the lighthouse on the southern tip.

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Going south, there is just one road that accesses the lower hotel zone, crosses the island and loops back north again.   Within the borders of this road is the Parque Nacional Chankanaab which consists of a saltwater lagoon, an archaeological park, botanical gardens, ,Mayan ruins and much more.  Accessible only by foot, jeep or tour operator it is a wonderful day out.

The Isle of Man (UK) (irrelevant add-in)

As I wrote the above I couldn't help but see a similarity between the shape and size of Cozumel and that of the Isle of Man (UK)  - flip one of them over lengthways and they are definitely cut from the same mould.  Isle of Man dimensions 33 miles x 13 miles wide.

 

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POLE DANCING on the way to ISLA COZUMEL !

Leaving Playa del Carmen today for the island of Cozumel, 10 miles offshore but only 30 minutes by Ultramar high speed ferry.   It looks a bit lumpy out to sea but we'll grin and bear it for the short time we're aboard.    It's on these occasions when you just know it would be a smoother ride if you were a sailboat!

We've taken  a cab to the Playa ferry port but the roads immediately around the port are pedestrian-only and we have to unload our bags about 300yds from where we need to be and book a pedicab and driver.

Alejandro with a robust looking, luggage carrying trike, comes to the rescue - loaded up we walk alongside him as he slowly cycles and weaves his way through the Saturday morning crowds. 

His first question rather threw us as he came to a halt and asked   : "You like pole dancing?".... before we had a chance to reply, there were loud cheers from the immediate crowd around us and hundreds of cameras clicked.

We were looking at a pole, over 150 high, at the top of which were five men  adjusting lines in readiness for their launch off the top.  Once airborne, they slowly circled the pole on ever lengthening lines.  The single man remaining at the top played the flute and drum throughout the process.   This was Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flyer) - an ancient Mayan ritual created to ask the Gods to end send rain - but please, not today, tomorrow will be fine with us....



It started with them sorting out their long lines for descent ....



they then eased  themselves into mid air, attached to their line by one ankle,  and began circling
the pole upside down.  They have it well timed as they can only circle 52 times before reaching the ground.

Smart, modern ferries depart every 30 minutes for the island and they are nearly always full.  Today the exposed upper deck will be too hot and windy and we opt to travel inside where the air conditioning is running at full pelt.  There's also a tourist info film which runs on a loop and focuses on the eco aspects of the island which has many easily accessible reefs for snorkeling and diving.

 

PLAYA DEL CARMEN - our 'aparthotel' - Casa Ejido

Thanks to the internet we found another great place to stay.   The Casa Ejido has three locations within walking distance of each other.  - all different depending on what you want.   - there is a very attractive looking B&B complex, or small studios for two set around an enclosed garden area, and then a gated apartment block which is where we  stayed for ten days.  There was full maid service every day - floors were mopped, fresh towels and linens.   Wonderful value @ $60 per day (39GBP).


First impressions - not bad.  Tall, decorative wrought iron access gates lead into the private pool area and stairways to the upper floors.  Well kept shrubbery and potted plants add to the ambiance.

 

 This is the balcony leading off our dining area.  There was another balcony leading off the bedroom.



Our kitchen/diner was large with comfy armchairs and equipped with all the pots, pans, utensils, crockery, glassware etc - everything you needed except for the food but we enjoyed our daily walk to the supermarket for fresh items.



Bedrooms were large and airy with King beds and, through the curtain, a balcony with small table and chairs overlooking the garden. A nice quiet place to sit and relax.

PLAYA del CARMEN - a walk around

Almost everyone thinks about the Caribbean as an endless, white, sandy beach with clear waters and lots of palm trees.  A great spot to spend your vacation and relax.  And that is TRUE!!

Playa del Carmen is part of the Mexican Riviera – hotels abound – upscale resorts,  vacation rentals,  downtown hostels, homely B&Bs – there is definitely something to suit everyone.  However, it is extremely touristy and being only an hour from Cancun airport, where the majority of people arrive,  it  could be mistaken for a scaled down version of Cancun.

Also, it’s very commercial - McDonalds, TGI Fridays, Burger King, Walmart, even Starbucks –  they are all here.  The once small town of Playa is pushing out its boundaries but from the centro  everything is still within walking distance. 

On a short stop  you might never get beyond the thickly populated tourist area but on this sector of our journey we have opted to do just that and booked an apartment about 30 mins walk from the beach.

Where hotels are concentrated the beach can be very crowded in high season and is best avoided!   This is the Riviera Maya Beach Resort.   Beaches aren't the only places to hang out and there's a lot to do here from kayaking, swimming with dolphins, snorkeling, historic tours....don't let this picture give you the wrong impression, the beaches of Playa del Carmen stretch a long way and in some places become almost deserted.

 

This is the traffic-free main road - Quinta Avenida (5th Ave) - it is a wonderful place to be, narrow streets off the main road take you into the recesses of Playa de Carmen - there are tourists shops, fruit markets,  cafes, clothing and fashion outlets,  restaurants - almost anything you would want to buy can be found here. At this time of year the trees and flowers are in full bloom.  It is quite lovely.

 

The barber's shop - I left William in here getting a short back and sides!

 


WATCH YOUR STEP!*! 
It is not unusual to find manhole covers missing - even on busy streets - no warnings, no signage......and probably no-one to sue if you fall in.

  Pavements everywhere are full of holes large and small, broken bits stick up at angles or the pavement suddenly stops and starts again a few feet further on, there are so many trip hazards - enough to keep an Environmental Health department busy for years.   So be warned, if you're out for a walk don't take your eyes off the road ahead.  PS my foot is the one with the fancy shoe!

 

What a great idea - we often see trash bags suspended from trees -  a good way to reduce attack by animals.



?..holy moly!!

Every supermarket and grocery stores sells packaged mole ready to serve.  I know what you're thinking..."NO WAY, this is the last straw, I will never, not ever, eat a Mole no matter how it's packaged!'...........pronounced MOH-lay, this dark brown Mexican sauce or gravy, is made from dry chilis, spices, vegetables, chocolate, tomato + other seasonings.  It's often served over chicken but can be used for any meat dish - we are yet to try it.......

Mexicans just love music - and these strolling musicians are about as far as you can get from those terrible TV images of  droopy moustaches, big sombreros and aye-yi-yi music.  We have never yet eaten at a restaurant in any town without the pleasure of some live music.  Sometimes, just a single resident guitarist or a passing band, such as these guys. 

 

 

 

 

COBA to PLAYA DEL CARMEN a smooth bus ride

There is only one bus a day which goes from Coba to Playa del Carmen, it arrived at 8.30am this morning next to the entrance to ruins, passengers disembarked and the driver relocated to a quiet street where he will stay until his return journey at 3.10 pm to Cancun, stopping off at Tulum and Playa del Carmen en route.

We got to the bus terminal (a small restaurant selling tacos) quite early as we couldn't be sure if there would be any seats.  However, several passengers were staying in Coba which freed up space and we bought our tickets.

The journey is just over two hours - our reserved seats were just behind the driver with masses of leg room and we fell asleep as the monster movie played out on the screen above us..

Oh my! these buses are so comfortable - head back, plump up the cushion and zizz!  It made a change from our recent taxi transports from town to town.

We got to Playa del Carmen at 5.30pm - the bus station was busy. We worked our way through the crowds to the cab line and loaded our luggage into a cab for the short journey to our 'aparthotel'.

OK! OK! this is not the cab we took to the hotel, although the volume of luggage looks about the same -  but it's not unusual to see modest trucks overloaded to this degree with people hanging on the sides as 'extras.

Mexican Fosa Septica - Septic Tank

William has asked me to remove this particular posting as totally irrelevant and of no interest to anyone.   

However, I disagree (first time in 34 years!).  It gives insight to the local drainage systems and  it's an interesting article to be read, quietly with your feet up,  a large cup of tea and a chocolate chip cookie.

I also have this belief that you are clicking onto this blog when blank moments crop up during the day and you're looking to fill in time - this is the perfect article!!


Double click on this link :.

Yucatan Living » Yucatan Survivor » Mexican Fosa Septica





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COBA - our 'hotelita'

The Hotelita Sac-Be was clean, comfortable with basic rooms - 2 beds, a small table, tv,
aircon unit, bathroom and excellent value @ 26GBP/ per night.  It was on the main road and within easy walk of the Coba Lagoon and the archaeological site.

The chickens in the next door farmstead were a bit noisy in the morning but we always had fresh eggs on hand!

Never judge a hotel by its exterior - in Mexico there's always a surprise on the inside!



The small restaurant upstairs which overlooked the road.  Food was good.



Nice clean rooms with windows overlooking the farmstead.  TV reception was good and wifi signal worked well.



All of the hotels we've stayed at have requested no paper to be put down the toilet.  Having lived on a boat for 8 years this was not an issue with us but it certainly worried other people, as we found out one night when a fellow guest said 'I just can't handle it - they actually want me to put 'my paper, in the bin!!'  We thought it was because the sanitation systems might clog up - but far from it.    SEE NEXT BLOG AND BE UPDATED ON MEXICAN POLITENESS.